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By: Sonia Leung

“Five colours to wear this fall!” “Biggest trend of the season!” These headlines (and their variations) make their way around the fashion magazine circuit year-round. Magazines and similar media are quick to prescribe a trend to track, a culture to associate yourself with, and rules to abide by.

There is nothing wrong with these trends or adhering to a culture of following fashion guidelines. After all, they only become widespread as more and more people appreciate the proposed aesthetic. At the same time, there is nothing wrong with pushing boundaries, testing the waters and seeing what works for you even if this may means you’re the only one swimming against the current. As much as I love seeing the analogous colours of autumn as fall trends make their way into the fashion zeitgeist, other colours need some love too.

If you are a utilitarian, kudos to your practicality! But if you are like me, clothing possesses a dual purpose — it is an outward expression of your inner reality. For me, attire is a mood ring of sorts, an in-a-nutshell approximation of the uniquely intricate properties that make you, you (or of the thoughts and emotions that morning when you got dressed up.)

If I wake up in the morning feeling like P. Diddy, I’m likely to be sporting a vibrant colour or bold print. On a dull uneventful day of hiding under readings and paperwork, I may be spotted with a more demure ensemble to reflect my state of hiding. When a day rolls around where I don’t feel as conversational as I usually do, I may wear a purple or black lipstick. If I find myself hankering to wear a colder-coloured lip gloss but still come off as inviting and approachable, I consciously smile more and adjust my body language to appear more open to counter the bold choice of makeup.

In a world where advertising is ubiquitous and there are constantly messages competing for your attention, we are conditioned to make split second judgments on what we see. Like it or not, this is the paradigm in which we live. We are required to form impressions quickly; we judge books by their covers. Of course, there are intellectually stimulating books with uninviting covers and vice versa. Covers aren’t always a fair preamble to the content lying thereafter, but in an ideal world, they would be.

Every action is a message. The absence of actions is also a message. Your attire and the way you carry yourself is a message and first impressions matter. Whether the messages you send are intentional or not, they are undeniably received by your peers. The way you present yourself may affect how others are primed to expect, think of, and interact with you.

Your appearance is not a testament of your character or personality just as covers are not a good measure of how fascinating a book is, but a book with a cover composed with care and intention would definitely invite more readers to read it.

Be bold, try a new colour, and redesign your cover.

By: Jeffrey Ye

Streetwear started out as a simple idea, but grew increasingly broad and complex beyond the word’s dictionary definition. When we think of streetwear, the words “hype” and “exclusive” often come to mind. We think of brands like Supreme that take influences from skate, hip-hop and various other youth subcultures, all combined to make a potent mix of nostalgia and on-trend styles that makes hype beasts foam at the mouth. However, these notions of streetwear represent only one aspect of the word that seems so difficult to define these days.

In the past few years, an incredible number of youth are embracing streetwear without having any connection to the various subcultures that shaped it. Look at me: someone who didn’t have the faintest interest in hip-hop, skate culture or even fashion growing up, but now streetwear is one of my biggest interests. It’s a topic that I love sharing and learning more about. What is it about streetwear that draws millions of kids like me around the world to it – kids who have no connection whatsoever to streetwear culture?

For one, I think attitude plays a large role in the appeal of streetwear. Streetwear is expressive and personal, almost an escape from the path that I personally rarely ever stray from. Growing up as a first generation immigrant, there is a lot of pressure to work hard and find success quickly. There are times when I feel like I not only carry my own goals and expectations, but those of my parents as well, who left their previous lives for me. Similar themes of familial pressure and expectation are present in the backgrounds of many of my friends.

Some grew up in religious families, private education and generally the farthest things from what is traditionally considered streetwear culture. Attitude is taking a step away from the pressure and knowing what it means to be an individual. I’m not saying streetwear is a way of giving the finger to one’s upbringing, neither is it disdainfully stating, “You can’t tell me what to do.” What I feel streetwear represents is a medium to experiment and express yourself however you want to.

The second reason may come as a surprise, but I think that the endless possibilities of streetwear are key to its popularity. You might be thinking, “Wait, there’s more to streetwear than bogo tees and Jordan’s?” Yes, because streetwear isn’t just exclusive drops and the hype-beast uniform. Perhaps even deeper than its roots in skate/surf culture, streetwear embodies a haphazard melting pot of the myriad fashions on the streets. These other aesthetics range from high fashion looks inspired by streetwear (“Raf Simons, Rick Owens usually what I’m dressed in,” A$AP Rocky), to Japanese streetwear (Visvim, Undercover), to what seems like an entire cult dedicated to biting off Kanye’s latest fits. The point is that there isn’t really a particular look or wardrobe that you need in order to get into streetwear. You can really experiment with whatever you already have, take inspiration from magazines, blogs, or people, and build your wardrobe from there. This is a powerful idea and part of the reason many prefer streetwear over the uniformity and rigidity of classical menswear—don’t forget to leave the bottom button unbuttoned!

It seems now prudent to address the issue of cultural appropriation and whether or not taking pieces of basketball history (or any other subculture) such as Chuck Taylor’s, and turning it into a fashion statement dilutes the significance of the object. I can relate this to seeing others adopting aspects of my own culture, but as long as it’s not done in a mocking manner I personally cannot see any harm. Hopefully that doesn’t stop anyone from experimenting and developing their personal style.

Sometimes I look back and see how different I look and feel since I got into streetwear, even if I’m the same kid trying to decide what looks good and what looks bad. As Rachel Zoe said, “Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.”

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Jason - 4th year Arts & Science

Michelle - 2nd year Health Sciences

[Best_Wordpress_Gallery id="15" gal_title="Meet the Lifestyle editors"]

What are some of your favourite brands?

M: Some of my favourites have got to be Acne Studios, Norse Projects, A.P.C., Rag & Bone, Thom Browne, and Maison Kitsuné.

J: The best time of year is when Club Monaco and J. Crew have their annual sales. For the rest of the year, Zara is my go-to. When I’m out of Canada, the first clothing store I look for is uniqlo. I’m also a fan of the textiles used by Wings + Horns.

How would you describe your sense of style?

M: My colour palette generally revolves around black, grey, white, and other neutral colours. I’m also a big fan of subtle details, clean lines, and androgynous pieces. In general, I enjoy riding the “sporty and rich” wave; I often mix crepe trousers with a simple, cropped, grey tank top and sneakers. Comfy and chill is the goal.

J: It really changes depending on what I’m doing. When I’m out with friends I tend to be more experimental and do as Kanye would do (oversized shirts, leather etc).  If I’m heading to school or going to work, I like to keep it simple. All my clothes pop in one way (colour, pattern or textile), but never more than one so it’s not too busy.

As the heads of Lifestyle, why do you enjoy writing for your section?

M: Lifestyle is a section dedicated to the little things in our lives that we often miss due to busy days and hectic schedules. It’s really refreshing to work with a section that has so much freedom; we can write anything from lighter pieces on emojis to articles about mental wellness and self-care.

J: I love the wide scope of this section. In one article I can say “to catch a dick,” but in another I can write about student health. The annual Sex & the Steel City Valentine’s Day magazine is my favourite. Everyone involved always brings their A-game. The photos are more artistic, the layouts are bold, the articles are all great think pieces.

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When Dior looked to fill a vacancy in 2012, few expected Raf Simons to be tapped for the creative director role. Even fewer expected Simons to have the sheer panache to pull off a couture collection for the French house famed for its opulent, feminine designs.

But Simons was hired, and he accomplished the latter with aplomb, in a mere two months.

Dior and I provides an unrivalled account of Simons’ inauguration as Dior creative director, stretching from when he is first introduced as John Galliano’s successor in 2012 to his widely-acclaimed first haute couture collection.

For those unfamiliar, couture collections are entirely made by the hands of fashion houses’ ateliers. They are the ones who convert designers’ ideas from concept to reality, and are toiled over for months. Couture collections may be incredibly difficult to make, but houses like Dior are rewarded for their efforts with lucrative orders for pieces from the collection from their rich clientele.

With Simons coming in as a former industrial designer, and minimalist fashion devotee at Jil Sander, the job looked to be a tough one from the start with Simons only afforded two months to complete the collection.

The documentary’s title may give some the idea that the film is some sort of vanity project on the part of Simons, but it was only with reluctance that the notoriously private Belgian native allowed cameras to roll behind closed doors. Simons is decidedly uncomfortable in front of the camera at times, with the pressure of maintaining Dior’s legacy while designing something he has never done before simmering over occasionally. The film is as much about the eccentric workers who ply their trade in the ateliers as it is about Simons. For all the cerebral scenes discussing Simons’ influences for the collection as he walks through art galleries and coastal villas, there is an insightful one to match that focuses on one of the workers’ relationship with the house. Some have been at Dior for over 40 years, while others have only been employed for a few, but they all get Simons’ unwavering respect.

The latter portion of the film is full of nervous energy as the atelier crew rushes to have things ready by the show, while Simons arranges for what was a grimy Parisian flat to resemble Versailles when flowers are in bloom. If you pay any attention to fashion you will know that the collection received rave reviews upon its debut.

Don’t watch it to arrive at a known result, watch to marvel at what humble origins sartorial opulence often arises from and to observe Simons and the atelier in their natural habitat.

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Due to Jean Touitou’s first name, it should come as no surprise that the Tunisian-born founder of French label A.P.C. has largely built his credibility as a designer upon his jeans.

Because of the hard-ons that his raw denim and clothes elicit within both the street wear and fashion communities, Touitou has normally been given free reign to say whatever he wants. Oftentimes, as is the case with his very public disagreements with Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane, this carefree willingness to step on toes is entertaining; everyone loves a well-dressed old cynic whose very being pulsates with antipathy.

But last week, Touitou went from loveable ornery designer to racist appropriator. While presenting A.P.C.’s Fall/Winter ’15 collection, which includes a boot designed in collaboration with Timberland, Touitou held up a sign that read “LAST N*GGAS IN PARIS” and went on to give a lengthy description of one look.

“I call this one look Last N*ggas in Paris. Why? Because it’s the sweet spot when the hood—the ‘hood—meets Bertolucci’s movie Last Tango in Paris. So that’s ‘N*ggas in Paris’ and Last N*ggas in Paris. [Nervous laughter from the audience] Oh, I am glad some people laughed with me. Yes, I mean, it’s nice to play with the strong signifiers. The Timberland here is a very strong ghetto signifier. In the ghetto, it is all the Timberlands, all the big chain. Not at the same time—never; it’s bad taste. So we designed Timberlands with Timberland…”

Naturally, Touitou’s insensivtive commodification of black culture raised the ire of the public. In defense of his loaded remarks, Touitou cited his friendship with Kanye West, with whom he produced a collection last season. He told style.com, “as a matter of fact, when I came up with this idea, I wrote to him, with the picture of the look and the name I was giving to it, and he wrote back immediately saying something like, ‘I love this vibe.’”

If Kanye’s vote of confidence seems a cheap way to justify using a racial slur to sell clothes, that’s because it is.

Yes, the Timberland workboot has been an almost ever-present fixture within the rap scene, with its stars flaunting their wheat Timbs in videos and fans subsequently adopting them. But more concerning has been the fashion world’s complete co-opting of a boot that has been beloved by not just rap fans, but the working class as a whole. Snooty publications have betrayed their lack of perspective by their attempts to pass off the boot as a new trend.

Timberland naturally took a dim view of Touitou’s musings and immediately cancelled their collaboration.

Touitou has since apologized, saying, “when describing our brand’s latest collaboration, I spoke recklessly using terms that were both ignorant and offensive. I apologize and am deeply regretful for my poor choice of words, which are in no way a reflection of my personal views.”

While Timberland was quick to sever relations, the conversation ignited by the debacle has been useful in how it didn’t just look at Touitou’s error and instead focused on racial appropriation elsewhere. Julianne Escobedo Shepherd’s piece for The Muse, “APC Designer: I Can Call My Clothes ‘N*gga’; I’m Friends With Kanye” is probably the best one for how it dealt with the fetishization of black culture with a refreshing frankness.

Let’s just hope that other designers wise up and start treating other cultures with respect, not for the sake of their lucrative collaborations, but for the sake of being better human beings.

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By: Hayley Regis

I’ve always loved watches and clocks. There’s something comforting in the subtle ticking of an analog and the modern efficiency of digital models. But as someone who used to get frustrated by military time, I’ve been making an effort to go classic and get used to telling time by the hands while still maintaining the clean lines that I so adore. Watches have the ability to change an outfit, either dressing it up or making it more casual. With a variety of watches available at different price points, here are some of my picks for a timepiece that you’ll want to watch the time tick by on.

Marc by Marc Jacobs 36MM Baker $175

22MarcJacobsBaker

I own this one so I’m a little biased, but it comes in two sizes with a variety of straps and finishes so I’m sure we can come to some sort of arrangement. Clean cut, simple, and in true Marc Jacobs fashion, his moniker is tactfully inserted in a way that doesn’t make you want to cringe.

Mondaine Classic Swiss Railways Watch $220

22Mondanine

Based on the clocks of the Swiss Railway, this watch is easy to read and comes in a variety of face sizes. Its price point is higher end for something so simple, but they really are built to last, unlike that IKEA desk you bought in second year.

Timex Modern Original Grande Classic $95

22timex

The cheapest in this rundown, Timex and Swatch are solid go-tos for anyone starting to take an interest in watches, as their prices are low enough that if you decide to revert back to using your iPhone, you aren’t out too much OSAP money. The black-on-black display is minimal but functional, and that’s basically how I got started in watches.

Daniel Wellington Classic Bristol $229

22DanielWellington_web

 

Not a lot to say about this watch other than for something so simple it’s pretty drool-worthy. Clean, simple (are you sensing a trend?), and with more band choices on the site that seems appropriate anybody could find something to like here. No worries if you fall out of love with your choice, as the bands are easily interchangeable, making this watch truly timeless.

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For the Spring/Summer 2015 season, a variety of fashion houses ushered in a series of fabulous campaigns featuring an unusual selection of models.

Dolce and Gabbana’s nonnas took center stage with black lace and beautifully adorned handbags. On their heads sat elaborate gold and red crowns. The aesthetic of the advertisements was Italian culture meets Spanish matador. Of course, there’s nothing more Italian than nonnas, and arguably nothing more fashionable than Dolce and Gabbana’s creations.

Céline’s campaign featured an ultra-chic and minimalist photograph of 80-year-old American writer Joan Didion. Her oversized glasses and simple black sweater captured the streamlined essence of the house. At Saint Laurent, 71-year-old Joni Mitchell was photographed channeling a 1970s-inspired ensemble, complete with an acoustic guitar and a black wide-brimmed hat.

Although this was certainly not the first time fashion houses used older models in their campaigns, the campaigns have been consistently visually stunning, embodying the aesthetic of the house, while also being culturally relevant. For example, for Fall/Winter 2012, Lanvin featured Jacquie Tajah Murdock, who was 82 at the time. In what can only be described as classic French elegance, Murdock stunned in a jewel-toned dark blue peplum outfit. Her untouchable glamour was the centerpiece of the campaign, which spoke to years of Lanvin’s Parisian charm.

With Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar featuring models like 83-year-old Carmen Dell’Orefice and 84-year-old Daphne Selfe, it’s clear that the industry is beginning to recognize how wonderful diversity in age representation is, both for consumers of the images and the producers of the content.

There is no doubt that representation of diversity in fashion advertisements is certainly a point of contention and a serious issue that reflects a problem in both the industry and society in general. Photoshopped images that erase signs of imperfections on seemingly flawless young models are hardly symptoms of progressive ideals of beauty. The absence of older women in fashion culture and media is part of the harmful paradigm of impossible standards of what society deems as beautiful and desirable.

The images that Céline, Dolce and Gabbana, Saint Laurent, and Lanvin have produced are critical to the inclusion of older women and key to incorporating widespread representation in fashion. The campaigns are not kitschy or campy. They aren’t presenting age as an underlying joke, or putting these women on display to criticize. The campaigns are stunning and genuinely speak to both the models and the fashion house. These women are not only beautiful, they are cultural icons.

Most importantly, these advertisements destroy the culturally engrained narrative that older women are not fashionable. Fashion does not have an expiration date.

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By: Daniella Porano and Hayley Regis

D: It’s official. Radio stations are playing Christmas music, malls are decked out in consumeristic holiday glee, and everyone is feeling anxious about their post-holiday bank accounts. In the coming month, holiday parties, family gatherings, and made-for-TV Christmas movies will dominate my social calendar, and with that, images of pencil skirts, colourful knits, and heels will dominate my mind (What exams? What final papers?).

H: I usually have a pair of holiday parties and New Year’s celebrations to attend, so that gives me plenty of occasions to look as fabulous as humanly possible.  Last year for Xmas one of two, I paired a patterned pencil skirt with a half-tucked vintage tee and a big glamorous necklace. My family is usually pretty casual so I planned for something that would make me feel like the coolest of cats but allow me to eat and drink as much as possible. Anything to soothe the burn of the term paper I have yet to write.

D: Last year I celebrated a handful of Christmases, which all came with their own set of dress codes. At a dinner celebration, I donned maroon-coated skinny denim, a black peplum sleeveless shirt with a collar, and a pair of riding boots. At my family’s casual Christmas lunch, I wore a plaid woven skirt, tights, a fitted cable-knit sweater, and scarf. This year my central style rule will revolve around pairing everything I can with heels. Their ability to instantly dress up a relatively simple outfit is ideal, especially when splurging on new holiday clothing isn’t an option. For cozy winter evenings at home, I plan on opting for slouchy sweaters with boyfriend jeans.

H: For last New Year's I went full glam. I stayed in, ordered food, and watched movies with my best friends. I wore a full-length dress that’s basically a blanket with some chunky earrings because I knew I would have to be in public(ish) to greet the delivery guy. This year, I’m looking forward to rocking anything with a high-waist with chunky and coordinated cropped knits. That or the pantsuit I just ordered. I’m pretty excited to have my hands on what is basically just a souped-up onesie that is somehow socially acceptable because it isn’t made of acrylic and fleece. For my evenings in I’m going to stick with my harem pants and half-tuck a basic white tee.

D: Last New Year's I opted for a cozy knit layered over a collared denim shirt, black skinny jeans, and boots, and paired with a chunky knit scarf and a beanie. I still froze - I mean that’s my fault because I thought it would be “cute” to go skating in minus twenty-five degree weather by Toronto’s Harbourfront. This year, it’s all about the glam. I can’t wait to put on my favourite black jumpsuit, a pair of snakeskin heels, and rock a red lip to whatever party I end up going to.

Hayley and Daniella's Holiday Style Rules:

1. Marry your shoes.

I don’t care if you need to make an elaborate vow to your five-inch stilettos before you attend a party. For the night, you and your shoes are betrothed, deeply connected, common law partners. Under no circumstance do you remove your shoes until you return home and/or go to sleep.

2. Dress for the weather.

I don’t care how cool you look in the club; if your skin is blistering as soon as you step outside, you are making a poor life choice. Layer up. This isn’t just for clubs, going to family gatherings where you know you’re going to be inside can make it tempting to just wear whatever but trust. Wouldn’t you rather be a layered parfait than a single scoop of vanilla in the case of emergency?

3. Regarding accessories.

Follow the eternally wise words of the ultimate Parisian Coco Chanel, “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and remove one accessory.”

By: Andrew Case

Are you ready for the greatest thing since that one time when Einstein proved that he hadn’t actually stood his date up at all because he’d walked really super fast to get there and his watch said he was actually early and so it must be the case that time is relative? Yes? Good.

Do you own a pair of socks? Congrats, you’re halfway there! Do you own Birkenstocks? You’re golden. Now all you need is either no fashion sense or a complete lack of shame, and your life will be transformed. The revelation to which I refer is, of course, ‘Stocks and socks.

I was introduced to this life-changing footwear combination back in my carefree youth. My friend Ryan, a lineman on the high school football team and a generally chill guy, was sitting in class – on a chilly November day, mind you – wearing his Birkenstocks and socks, just like he had been since September. I inquired, with a complete lack of tact (as per my usual) “Why are you still wearing socks and sandals? You must know that’s a faux pas.” “Nah, man,” came Ryan’s languid response, “you don’t understand. Birkenstocks and socks together are unreal.”

I was unswayed by Ryan’s wise words, I’m embarrassed to say. But I began to notice others who were committing the same fashion crime. Had the whole world gone mad? Curious, but unconvinced, I lived another year of my life without making the switch and becoming part of the ‘Stocks n’ socks family. Oh the regret! I tell you, if you are among the uninitiated, what I now know to be true: that there is no greater pleasure one can give the foot than the warm, cushioning embrace of a quality sock slid in-between the molded-to-your shape cork sole and fine leather upper of superior German footwear. Actually, to be perfectly honest, I haven’t tried socks with other sandals. It’s probably just as good.

Nonetheless, the socks and sandals stigma remains. We must unite, my friends, to crush the outdated notion that socks and sandals are only for dads, those over 70, and people who wear their phones on belt clips. Join me, I beg you, in wearing your ‘Stocks n’ socks, so that no haughty fashionista may look down upon us. Wear them in the Spring, in the Summer, and even in the fall. Wear them until it is so cold that you “can’t even.”

My only hope is that now, after reading this, you too will wear socks with your Birkenstocks or other variety of sandal. I waited too long to make the switch, and must live to bear the consequences of my actions. But it is not too late for you! And just maybe, by saving others from making my mistake, I can bring an end to the nightmares, the cold sweats, and the sleepless nights. So do it. Do it for me. But more importantly, do it for your feet: they will thank you.

I’ll be the first to admit I absolutely loathe winter. Yes, I’m aware that I’m the worst Canadian around, and no, I don’t like snow (with the exception of the very small window from December 24 to 25).

The only good things about winter, in my humble Canadian-born-and-bred mind, are the luxurious accessories that come along with the dreaded season — which I imagine is what frozen hell is like. Those big knitted scarves and slouchy toques almost make winter bearable — almost.

SCARF SEASON

I am of the opinion that scarves can create or change an entire outfit. This opinion is not unfounded, according to Burberry’s 2014 F/W runway show, which featured glorious blanket scarves worn in every possible way. This show, along with a handful of fashion-savvy New Yorkers, has since created the wonderful trend that has taken fall and winter fashion by storm.

This season is all about massive scarves. The bigger they are, the better they are — which is excellent news for us Canadians on a mission to strike a balance between style and warmth. These wearable blankets masquerade as super chic scarves, fulfilling all our winter dreams in one beautiful super-sized piece of fabric.

THE 2015 LOOK

This new blanket scarf trend compliments your winter coat, and most importantly functions as an extra-warm knit to snuggle in during your valiant fight against the biting cold. Rich jewel tones, plaid, and knitted scarves are all fantastic buys that can take your outfit from boring to fabulous in a single wrap. Play with textures, colours, and patterns to create a unique look with minimal effort and have a successful winter morning.

Remember, a super soft pashmina in a solid colour never really goes out of style, and can be worn throughout winter as a warm and vibrant addition to your wardrobe. The blanket scarf is growing stronger as people everywhere are realizing what a luxury this is. Designers like Burberry are making this look high-fashion and celebrities like Olivia Palermo are also championing this look. These scarves can be draped over your shoulders or worn like a poncho, depending on the style.

HAT’S OFF TO WINTER

Beanies can be found anywhere and everywhere and getting different patterns or colours can make an outfit stand out. Plus, you don’t have to take it off when you get inside. There are a lot of things that are terrible about winter, a lot of things. Even though the season generally makes me want to curl up in a ball and cry, I take comfort in the fact that it’s socially acceptable to wear a large blanket as a scarf or a big beanie on my head. Yes, winter is coming, but with it the opportunity to look stylish in hats and scarves.

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