Despite being hit hard by the pandemic, the Hamilton Farmers’ Market is maintaining a steady presence downtown

On a typical day, the Hamilton Farmers’ Market would be busy, full of people either drifting from stall to stall or marching down the aisles with purpose. The air would be filled with the sounds of cheerful chatter as regulars caught up with their favourite vendors or friends they ran into by chance. Established in 1837, the market is an important place of community for Hamilton and a steady constant throughout the city’s history.

“I think it's one of the best things that Hamilton has to offer, right up there with waterfront escarpment, arts and culture and the music scene and all that . . . I would say that Hamilton Farmers’ Market [is one of] of the great assets of the city,” said Eric Miller, chair of the market’s board of directors.

“I think it's one of the best things that Hamilton has to offer, right up there with waterfront escarpment, arts and culture and the music scene and all that . . . I would say that Hamilton Farmers’ Market [is one of] of the great assets of the city,” said Eric Miller, chair of the market’s board of directors.

However, the market has experienced some dramatic changes due to the pandemic. In March, they implemented the necessary public health measures, including wearing masks, social distancing protocols and hiring security to help control the flow of people. While these changes were necessary, it meant that all fronts of the market have been sharply impacted by the pandemic.

All vendors at the market were affected, though some more so than others. In terms of their operations specifically at the market, many were limited in what they could sell, especially during the early stages of the pandemic. Miller noted that in some cases these limitations were because of disruptions to the supply chain. Many farmers were unable to hire help to pick their harvests and florists in the region experienced interruptions to the system by which they exchange flowers. Vendors offering cheese and meats also faced supply challenges during the pandemic.

For other vendors, particularly those selling non-food items, they found there was little to no demand for their products. One such vendor is Saji Kollanthara’s Folk Art Prints, who sells hand-printed artisan items imported from India. 

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Since the COVID [pandemic] started . . . people have no interest in buying anything other than food . . . So I waited for one week then I noticed that there is no point [in] opening the shop, because nobody's buying it. Nobody [was] even looking at my place because they were invested only in food items and nothing of anything else, so I stopped going there after one week,” said Kollanthara, who closed his stall for three months during the pandemic.

Since the COVID [pandemic] started . . . people have no interest in buying anything other than food . . . So I waited for one week then I noticed that there is no point [in] opening the shop, because nobody's buying it."

While Kollanthara’s stall was only closed on a temporary basis, four other businesses, including Cake and Loaf and Jamaican Patty Shack, were forced to terminate their contract with the market during the pandemic. 

Additionally, immediately following the pandemic announcement, the market also saw a dramatic decrease in customers, by almost 75 per cent during stage one according to Miller. This is likely because customers were being encouraged to limit trips into the community or order online.

Furthermore, while the market itself was not closed at any point during the pandemic, customers’ ability to access the market was restricted. This was in part due to the closure of the Jackson Square entrance during Stage 1 and much of Stage 2, which is a primary entry point to the market. Many also relied on public transportation to attend the market and were understandably concerned about continuing to do so.

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However, despite these difficulties, the market remains open and continues to persevere. While the numbers have not reached typical levels for this time of year, customers are slowly returning to the market. Some customers have commented to the market’s board of directors that they actually feel safer at the farmers’ market, as opposed to a larger supermarket.

However, despite these difficulties, the market remains open and continues to persevere.

Some current vendors, including Kollanthara, have also mentioned that while the pandemic brought many challenges, it also provided them with new opportunities, such as the time to learn how to develop and create an online platform for their business.

A couple of new businesses are even preparing to launch stalls at the market. The first, which opened in the market a few weeks ago, being Hotti Biscotti, a local, small-batch bakery. There are currently two other businesses in the process of setting up shop at the market.

“Two of them just presented to us at the last board meet on what they have to offer. So that's exciting for us . . . I would say it boosts our spirit to have new vendors setting up shop,” said Miller.

While these are without doubt difficult times, there is comfort to be found in the steady presence and perseverance of the Hamilton Farmers’ Market. The market and its vendors have been present through all the storms that Hamilton has had to weather and by continuing to offer delicious food, fantastic flowers and charming crafts, they will help us weather this one as well.

Photos by Kyle West

By Drew Simpson

The Mustard Seed Co-operative’s new café is just shy of two weeks old. The café fits in a perfect hub on the left upon entering the grocery store. The warm string lights, wooden details and contrasting black backdrop displaying the café menu set a welcoming tone for the Mustard Seed Co-op.

At one end of the space lays the café, inside the store yet out of the way of potential shopping. At the other end of the store and directly opposite the café counter is a cozy area with tan round wooden tables, earth-toned chairs and an L-shaped wood bench. It feels like the perfect progression: ordering a coffee, walking across the store to take a seat or walking around the aisles to shop for local food.

Although the grocery store is a co-operative, there is no membership needed to shop or to enjoy the café’s fair trade coffee, tea, espressos, lattes and Italian sodas with house-made syrups. However, after seeing the harmony between the café counter and the community space all within this grocery store, one can imagine it would be worthwhile to be a part of the community that birthed and built the Mustard Seed café.

Stacey Allen-Cillis, the operations team lead and a founder of Mustard Seed Co-op already knew the importance of local eating due to her own backyard garden started by her two kids. She started by selling produce from her own backyard and gave all the proceeds to youth at risk.

The people behind the Mustard Seed Co-op are not the only ones interested in urban farming and local eating. Passersby will come across houses selling backyard farm produce on walks through the neighbouring streets and boulevards.

“The Mustard Seed community is all very like-minded. We are all connected…so either you’re growing your own, you go to a community garden, you utilize farmer’s markets, you’re passionate in some way about food, community and beyond. It’s all intertwined,” explained Allen-Cillis.

When the community expressed a need for the café, the co-op board agreed. The fated café became a reality through cooperation between staff, committees and even volunteer ‘worker bees’ that built the space.

It is only natural for the café space, which includes an indoor and outdoor section, to double as a community space. Adding another medium for Mustard Seed Co-op to connect with the community. The intention is also for everyone in the neighbourhood to have access to a space that is their own, especially with a lack of cafés within a kilometre radius. The Co-op will also utilize the space to continually educate its shoppers and members about the importance of local eating.

With the café honouring the five-year anniversary of the business, it also symbolized that the Mustard Seed Co-op is fulfilling its prophecy as ‘the mustard seed is an ancient metaphor for great things coming of small beginnings,’ as mentioned in the membership passport.

Additionally, it is the only Co-op grocery store in Hamilton. Allen-Cillis foresees either opening another location in Hamilton or encouraging the sprouting of another Co-op by sharing the Mustard Seed Co-op’s success. Allen-Cillis always stresses that everything accomplished is through the cooperation of the Co-op’s members, staff and community.

The Mustard Seed Co-op’s members are able to attend general assembly meetings where they can vote and take part in specific committees, like the sourcing committee, which focuses on where local food is coming from, or committees like the one that made the café a reality.

Walking through the grocery aisles, café and community space seems like the perfect intersection between conscious eating and supporting the community. For the health conscious shopper who loves to give back by purchasing locally sourced produce, the Mustard Seed Co-op is a great grocery store and now, a great café with a community space you can call your own.

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