Remembering Oscar de la Renta
As throngs of models fly out of Milan and into Paris for the last chapter of “Fashion Month,” the buzz and excitement from its inauguration in New York City have been drowned out by the anticipation for what is still to come. We should not, however, forget New York so quickly.
While all eyes were all the big players – including Prabal Garung, Zac Posen, and Proenza Schouler – some of the most impressive FW 15/16 collections and stimulating shows in the Big Apple did not come from high-fashion houses. Thom Browne, for instance, debuted an all-black fall collection in a funeral-themed show, where the centrepiece was a white-clad body on a gurney. Other riveting works came from Victoria Beckham, Rag & Bone, Patrik Ervell, Public School, and Opening Ceremony (seriously, check them out – you will not regret it).
Despite these fantastic efforts, however, the anticipation for all of those designers combined would not have compared to the anticipation for one, arguably the most important event at NYFW – Oscar de la Renta.
The Oscar de la Renta show this year acted as the debut of Peter Copping’s first turn as creative director of the elite fashion house. De la Renta, who died last year after a battle with cancer, was a bonafide fashion icon. He wasn’t just one of America’s greatest designers; he was a visionary, building and crafting garments into pieces of art. The late designer appointed Copping, a 48-year-old British designer who has had a quiet but successful career in Paris fashion for two decades, as his successor right before his passing. To say the least, Copping had large shoes to fill – and that remains to be a wild understatement.
Thankfully, Copping’s new collection would have made de la Renta proud. The new creative director stayed true to the late designer’s legacy while adding his own modernizing touches. For instance, a black cashgora coat, a de la Renta staple, was worn over an ivory satin-crepe dress with a high, almost turtleneck neckline. Copping put a refreshing spin to a refined piece by adding the neckline of the moment. Other youthful cues came in the unexpected combination of different fabrics and colours, particularly the mixture of gorgeous jewel tones. Garments were donned with beautiful embroidery and appliqués, and featured more exciting cuts and fabrics. Perhaps the biggest change was the shift from de la Renta’s signature floor-length gowns to shorter, more playful cocktail dresses. Even the gowns, which remained the main event, featured sheer fabric and pockets.
When people think of Oscar de la Renta, they remember a man whose exquisite creations emulated effortless elegance and refined grace. De la Renta dedicated his life to making women feel special, infusing his works with equal measures of strength and femininity. Peter Copping’s new collection for the fashion house paid homage to this legacy with a youthful mindset, setting the stage for an era that combines the old and the new.
Immediately after the show, Copping said backstage, “I wanted to be respectful to Oscar’s legacy, and at the same time fashion moves quickly, so you have to state your intentions straight away.” Although Oscar de la Renta is no longer with us in person, it’s nice to know that his vision will endure in the capable – and very talented – hands of someone who isn’t afraid to make amazing, even more amazing.
